I was not able to get to Keoto. Maybe next trip, but this one has been action packed. I would suggest using a thin film of white glue rather than just licking the stamps.. I think it would write itself with input from all the users and publishing a dozen or so projects that you would shop test.
For the best project I would be willing to sponsor a new fence system for the Jointmaker Pro as the grand prize. Awesome idea. I want to cogitate on the concept for a couple of days…. Your sponsorship offer is not only generous, but a real motivator…. I know one thing…we will throw in the Earthquake After Detector to really shake things up…. I figured out the sliding dovetails and ran a couple test joints and will post it to the forum when the forum will let me.
I have pictures and everything. Thanks for going to all of the work to proove the method for sliding dovetails! I like that the blade will be held firmly as it enters the piece. Also, with your jig the piece can be securely fastened to avoid movement. This will work! Your help is really appreciated. This cut is very useful for small boxes etc. I think a lot of JMP users will find this post very beneficial.
Another potential issue is how sharp the blade is? John, Do you have some pointers on this? What indicators do you use to determine when a blade change is in my best interest? I judge blade wear primarily by the quality of the cut. When I see, or feel a surface that no longer amazes me, I change blades. Blade drift is an automatic change out—defeats the intent of needing no further work.
The best discipline for blade longevity is to force oneself to take little bites and lots of passes. OK, It is time for a blade change on my saw for sure. Do you leave the blade cut inclination at the lowest level normally or do you adjust this frequently?
I normally have left this at a low setting at the bottom of the adjustment. Thanks for your pointers on this! This can easily be done with the JMP by making the dado side cuts and a couple of center cuts and then just cleaning out the dado with a narrow chisel. The tray dovetails were made with a shoulder so that they could cover up the dado slots.
I find it always the best option to make a shoulder on dovetails — especially on small work. This really helps to reference the piece accurately for marking the cuts.
This piece surprisingly was made very quickly in a couple of evenings. I was somewhat focused since I had a deadline, but I could not have done this nearly as well using any of my other shop tools and I have too many. They work with both straight or mitered cuts. It is preferable to use these clamps which trap your stock between the fence and the clamp jaws as opposed to top-down clamps where the force needed to fix the wood can deflect the table they are slotted and cantilevered over the dovetail ways.
A thicker table wasn't an option, for both cost and cutting height capacity. Setting up a basic straight cut using a straight sacrificial fence and one stop. I cut a primed, five-inch, fluted curved column detail coming up from the bottom without any tear-out. Nobody is claiming the Jointmaker Pro is the tool for the guy that needs to make every minute of his day count - it is up to you to ascertain the value of this tool for your needs.
Four inch long miters are easily doable. For those with strong hands, hand-holding works, but for most, and for perfect results with no surprises, use the table clamps and fence with sandpaper.
To cut pins, you scribe pencil lines on the top of the tables - this is the reason for the light orange color of the sliding tables. Your pins are chopped out using traditional techniques; however, you can make a couple of extra cuts in the waste area to speed up the process. Just a flashing thought, it's 2 am in the morning as I'm writing this and there are two people sleeping upstairs, I could be down here cutting dovetails. To cut the tails, the blade is then appropriately tilted using test cuts.
A false table of aircraft plywood is attached and cut. There really is no way to screw this up. Setting up the the cut to my mark. One pass, then return. Before starting the cut, I set the forward height of the I also set the rear "Pitch Adjuster" to the height of the blade flush with the top of the sliding tables. I make three push, return cuts one on each set , with my fence set at one angle. Then I set the fence from the other side to the same angle and repeat the process to the second cut of each set.
Using my hands as a clamp firmly holding the stock to the fence. Being mindful of keeping the blade free of debris. For more information on making dovetail joints with the Jointmaker Pro, please refer to Bridge City Tools new dovetail video Breakout will occur if the stock is not held down properly.
The first piece I chamfered was about 3 feet long the size of a potential table leg and likely the maximum length without additional support dead-man bearings would work great.
As I said earlier you are limited to wood stock only at the present time. The blade selection doesn't allow for any plastic based materials. Prototype vs. Production Model mentions The clamp across the back end of the rails in some of the images is there because the prototype rails were out of spec by four thousands of an inch.
The production tables will be a bit narrower, the overhang is not needed. The tubular struts between the rails will increase from 2 to 3 for each side. The hex key adjustments on the fence to hold the dovetailed brace for the sacrificial fence will be relocated. Small shop woodworking accidents occur primarily through ignorance one table saw kick back is enough The later belongs in the stupid category - fingers versus powered cutters should never occur.
These are moments where a simple misstep could result in a painful recovery or a lifelong injury. Who would ever guess that it would take a hot dog to make us aware of the risks of a table saw?
Safety means something different to everyone. I once got a good deal on a small Swiss made modelers table saw because the woman I bought it from was fearful of the spinning blade, and all she wanted to make was small boxes.
Will the mechanism on the Jointmaker Pro lock up if you cut a hotdog? Will it cut your finger if you put it in harms way? You bet. No contest. Is this a tool that you could teach a son, daughter or grandchild how to use safely? And once you do, their cuts will be just as safe and accurate as yours. As mentioned earlier, the Jointmaker Pro is no more dangerous than any sharp hand saw in my opinion. I know of no other non-powered device than can match the accuracy or speed of the Jointmaker Pro or with less risk.
In the two days I worked on the Jointmaker Pro I didn't have to duck my head once to avoid flying projectiles And for those who are completely risk adverse, the clamping system John calls them trap clamps can be used for Other joinery cuts can be clamped to the fence freeing both hands to work the sliding table. On Health Forget about using your hearing protection and your dust mask - you don't need them.
After two days of working on the Jointmaker Pro all the dust settled onto a black cloth that I placed under it for the occasion. If you are a guy and there is a woman in your life, all you have to do is mention this and guess what you are getting for the holidays?
There are no high speed shrills, whining motors, and no need to fear of waking family or neighbors when working at night. On Ergonomics If you know how to drive a stick shift vehicle, you know about learning curves. The same learning curve is required with the Jointmaker Pro. It is completely new to us woodworkers and works different than any other saw - although there is an innate familiarity with how it works if you know how to use a table saw. Length of cut and density of material are the two primary variables that will need to be considered when setting blade pitch and depth of cut.
I only used the Jointmaker Pro for two short days, and I was getting to the point where it was a "no thinker". I believe most people will have no difficulty with understanding this new way of cutting wood. The "power" needed to push the wood across the blade is a non-issue regardless of sex or age once you understand how the tool works. Just make sure you crank down the blade beforehand and tie your shoelaces! Set Up Requirements This tool needs to be firmly attached to a rigid base and your body height determines the working height.
Regardless of your stature, it's very important to position the table, or you, so the sliding tables are at hip level. This is the optimal height for the strokes you make with your arm s when cutting.
If mounted too low you will kill your lower back. Mounted too high you will find the last two or three inches of travel to be awkward.
I stood on a pallet in Portland because the prototype was mounted to a workbench that was too high for my height.
Do not be lazy about this, it is a crucial point! Lastly, the Jointmaker Pro can either be clamped to a surface or screwed down it is pre-drilled using the bottom rails.
In addition to working height, your mounting surface should not be wobbly or out of sorts in any way. Be mindful of a secure stance - the correct positioning of your body as you work minimizes fatigue.
I do believe that I could cut on this tool for hours without fatigue. The rhythm you find yourself in is much like a leisurely walk. Your other option is to say hello to your knees and set it up on a carpet. No clamping required. Make sure you have enough light. Hmm, probably best not to start on an empty stomach In Summary Safety, accuracy, no utility power, and shop space requirements are the major selling points of this tool in my opinion.
When you consider that you do not need dust collection or the associated costs and noise , nor hearing protection, and the cuts are cleaner than anything you have ever seen there are several blog comments about the quality of cut by Chris Schwarz at Popular Woodworking that I cannot argue with after my experience, they are unbelievable , this tool will be a welcome addition to any shop where those traits are a major part of the value proposition. I never thought of this as consideration before, but being able to work without missing a note of my favorite music is a big deal to me.
Chris's blog The first prototype involved a Japanese handsaw held upside-down in a wood vise. The second permutation was a simple butcher-block with miter gage slots. This evolved to ball bearing linear tables see photos below and a tilting blade. The noise from the ball bearings, in addition to cost factors led to yet another version. All in all, there were over 40 digital computer versions and four different working prototypes built.
Eleven months later, the Jointmaker Pro is being released for manufacture. Barring surprises, the production time for the first edition will be 3 months and units will be delivered in November. I just received a comprehensive list of changes from the prototype I worked on when I was in Portland and I will note this in a later update.
If you glance back at the assembly section you have to notice the engineering aspects of a device representing twenty-five years of tool design experience. The Jointmaker Pro works for a reason; it is the singular passion of an out-of-the box thinker and it works unlike anything I have ever seen - or used.
It is my desire to provide FOG members with an accurate assessment of this new tool based upon my unbiased experience in Portland working with one of the prototypes. As part of my research, I have read many of the discussions on Internet forums regarding the Jointmaker Pro.
Here's a sampling; "the concept is innovative and you can't deny the results. But it takes away the portability factor of the handsaw, and the price, hmm!
Besides it doesn't have the tactile quality of a hand tool that draws most of us to them. I think it would add tremendously to the "usability" factor. If anyone uses this to cut dovetails, would we still call them "hand-cut" dovetails? And if so, how do we distinguish those from ones cut using just saws and chisels" "Over the next few weeks, I will be building more of these tables and I could really use a saw like that.
The inventor gave a demo to a group of us. All I can say is you have to use it to understand. It is void of the usual and obvious sexiness that I like to see in our tools. It is also completely open and anybody with a modicum of mechanical knowledge can understand how it works. It has a strange beauty that grows on you because of what it can do. Jointmaker Pro V2. Precision Fence System. Use this pivoting hold-down clamp to secure work to the table surface of your JMPv2.
When you look at this product vs. When he's not remodeling part of his house or playing with the latest power tool, Clint enjoys life as a husband, father, and avid reader. Working on a myriad of feature films , Clint honed his skills as a dialogue editor, foley editor, and sound designer.
After founding the CD Media, Inc. He also heads up the Pro Tool Innovation Awards , an annual awards program honoring innovative tools and accessories across the trades. Crediting his excellent staff for the success of what is now the largest power tool review publication in the industry, Clint DeBoer hopes to see continued growth for the company as it rapidly expands its reach. Pro Tool Reviews critically reviews hundreds of hand tools, power tools, and accessories each year to help inform users about the best and newest products in the industry.
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